Savouring winter: An Epicurean's guide
As the days draw in, many of us look for comfort in the home-like cafes and the dimly lit restaurants that dapple the streets of Falmouth, writes Barney Farnworth.
A compilation of sensory experiences as you walk through the town on a bright morning. Freshly baked breads, pastries and cakes from Stones Bakery combined with recently ground Beacon Coffee. Locally landed fish from Pysk and hand crimped pasties from Pip’s Pasty Shop, filling the air with optimism and confidence that the weather is not the only thing that can influence our happiness.
The seasons dictate Cornwall’s locally sourced, sustainable produce, a fact that’s especially evident in the ever-adapting menus of Restaurant Mine and their newly opened sister kitchen at The Star & Garter. Standing as a pub since 1892, The Star & Garter boasts a rich history and has created many fond memories for local patrons.
Now in the hands of Chef Patron Angus James Bell, they are providing Cornish small plates, and “Sunday Roasts with a little bit of decadence”. The latter caught my attention, so I headed to the High Street on a rainy Sunday afternoon to dutifully investigate.
Local beers and spirits decorate the wooden bar tops, plus an impressive and reasonable wine list. A table by the window continuously reassured us that we were much better off on the cosy side of the rain-lashed glass. Familiar starters included Mine’s famous Crab Fritters and Hog’s Pudding Scotch Egg. The dark arts of creating the perfect Scotch Egg are rarely witnessed in the South West of England, but I can guarantee you need not look any further.
The roast options included Classic Roast Beef Sirloin, Cornish Lamb Shoulder and Mushroom Wellington. All complimented with Roasted Shallots, Savoy Cabbage, Roasted Carrot, Yorkshire Pudding, Cauliflower Cheese and Duck Fat Roast Potatoes (vegetarian option available).
Chef Angus James Bell said: “Working and eating in some of the best restaurants in the UK, I noticed just how much of the produce was coming from Cornwall. So I thought, why not head straight to the source?”
The perfectly cooked meat and the crisp potatoes secured the ultimate Sunday Roast experience, alongside the local vegetables dressed in rich gravy. Is this a new contender for the best roast in town?